Conyers, GA Electrician Plumber HVAC Service

Tested system not cooling for the upstairs level. Customer stated that the unit was freezing and found this to be due the system leaking refrigerant. Unit is low on refrigerant by 3 pounds. Searched for a leak with my electronic leak detector but could not pinpoint a leak at this time. Informed the customer that we would need to complete a nitrogen pressure leak test in order to pinpoint the leak. After the nitrogen leak search, then we would be able to quote the repair of the leak. Customer decided to fill the system up with the missing refrigerant instead of searching for leak. Got the system charged up and system is cooling at this point, but will continue leaking.

Replaced fill valve and supply line in hallway bathroom toilet and also pulled basket strainer on right side of sink to clean, reseal with new plumbers putty and gasket and reset. Both repairs turned on and tested to ensure proper function.

Called out to install customer supplied valve performed work

For this job, I worked on providing and installing a four prong 30 amp dryer outlet. Also connected customer provided dryer cord to new dryer they just purchased check voltage and connection upon completing everything is working properly.

Based on our findings today, it might be time to think about getting a brand new system.

Tested system not cooling for the whole home. Found low refrigerant levels caused by a leak in the evaporator coil of the unit. The zoning components are very old and in poor shape. Return Plenum is rusted out due to lack of flood protections. Based on our findings today, it might be time to think about getting a brand new system. I filled the system up today with about 2 pounds over refrigerant to get them cooling for now and informed them that the cost would be put towards a new system.

Client has us out today because her water heater isn’t producing any hot water and hasn’t been for some time. Upon my inspection I found that the 50 gallon whirlpool natural gas water heater has begun to rust out and the water that’s leaking is putting the pilot out. This unit is 10 years old and out of manufactures warranty and life expectancy. There is a comfort pump with a dedicated recirculating line but the pump does not work, there are also no check valves on the dedicated recirculating line. I presented multiple options and today we went with replacing the water heater and installing a new prv to drop the pressure to within operating range. Talking with the client we also decided to eliminate the comfort pump from being tied onto the system, I cut out the pump and turned the valve off to eliminate water supply. All work is done and water is back on with no leaks and is heating as it should.

Client has us out today because she is getting a dish washer installed through where she purchased the unit and they said she needs to update her dish washer drain. It now runs down into the basement and into amp trap of its own. The stub out under the kitchen sink is too high and all compression nuts are butted together so there is no room to add a dish washer tail piece. I need to cut the back of the cabinet and drop the stub out around 3-4 inches. After speaking with the client she does NOT want to open the back of the cabinet open, after going over options we decided to get rid of the basket strainer on the left side and add a garbage disposal so the dish washer can just drain into it. I did leave the plug intact due to her needing to use the sink, but the work is done and the dish washer can now be tied into the garage disposal for draining purposes. However there is no power for the disposal and client is aware she needs an electrician out (I told her I can schedule her for ours

Permit, afci/gfci, panel, grounding system, whole home surge protection

Changed out flow sensor and flush