Frequently Asked Questions


Electrician Warranty: Yes, we are confident that our work will last a lifetime. Most modern electrical work will, if installed correctly. If we do not install it correctly, we want to fix it for free.

Heating and Cooling Warranty: Yes, we are confident in our installation abilities and want you to receive top notch professional work. TE will correct any installation that does not meet that standard free of charge, subject to certain limitations.

Electrician Warranty: Yes, we warranty every part we supply for life. If it goes bad in the first year, we will supply the part and replace it for free. If it goes bad anytime after a year we will give you a new part free of charge, but you have to pay for the installation. Some parts, like light bulbs, are not covered by the lifetime parts warranty.

Heating and Cooling Warranty: We offer a 10 year parts warranty for our heating and cooling installations and a 10 year labor warranty for properly maintained AC equipment, subject to certain limitations.

We make it a point to do good work with good durable parts, the kind of work that will last. This means we have few callbacks, but when we do have callbacks, we are happy to fix the problem because we care about our name and product. Plus, we want you to be our customer for life. So, we plan on upholding our agreement to provide great service for life. As for the competition, we don’t know why they limited their warranty.

Call us at (770) 667-6937 with your name, address, and warranty claim. We will send an electrician or HVAC technician to fix it right away. Don’t live with any inconvenience. Call us, we want to help!

Generally, we recommend a whole house safety check before making that decision. The most important factors are age of wire, condition of wiring, and the safety of the home. Homes with cloth wiring or without a grounding system are examples of homes that we recommend for rewiring.

Generally, homes built before the 1960’s contain cloth wiring. Cloth wiring deteriorates over time exposing the live wires inside the cloth coating to your home. A whole house safety check will reveal the type and condition of your wiring system. You can also see your wiring by looking in the crawlspace or attic. Look for your electrical wires running through the studs and rafters.

No, we can rewire your entire home and leave the Sheetrock virtually untouched. Generally, only a few 4″ x 4″ holes will need to be cut when an entire home is rewired. We are experts at fishing wires through walls and have rewired many homes with no Sheetrock damage at all. If you are interested in rewiring your home, call us and we will show you hundreds of positive reviews and you can talk to folks that have had their entire home rewired.

No, we will work around you and your schedule. We will keep the power to your home on and your air conditioning working. It is a little uncomfortable having electricians working in your home but the future increase in comfort and safety is well worth it.

Usually, we can rewire an entire house in about a week. This includes the necessary inspections and work. Larger homes can take two weeks or more.

The first major benefit is safety. A complete rewire removes any doubt that there is any electrical problem with your home. Plus, it includes looped smoke detectors, a new panel, GFCI outlets, grounded outlets, and plastic coated wire that will last a lifetime. Did you know that home insurance companies give better rates to homeowners with new wiring systems? They know the danger of old wiring better than anyone.

The second major benefit is comfort. We install additional outlets in every room including bathrooms, new outdoor outlets, switches, bathroom exhaust fans, ceiling fan boxes in all the bedrooms, closet lights, a new electrical panel that is completely labeled, and dedicated circuits to all your major appliances and outlets. Basically, your old home
gets all the conveniences of a new home. Plus, this is a great time to get recessed lighting and dimmers at a really great rate. Whole house rewires come with a lifetime warranty which means you don’t ever have to worry about your electrical system again.

The third major benefit is resale value. A completely rewired home adds thousands of dollars in actual value to your home and makes potential buyers more interested in your home than others. Every home buyer gets an inspection report full of pictures and opinions before buying a home. An old and unsafe electrical system is a big red flag for
potential buyers. A home with a completely new electrical system signed off on by your county inspector is really attractive to buyers.

No, just replacing the outlets will not help. The third prong is the most important – the ground. Without a ground wire to attach to, the new outlets are illegal. The only way to improve your outlet is to run new wiring to each outlet. This provides a ground wire to connect to your new outlet.

Smoke detectors chirp to alert the homeowner that the battery is low. If your smoke detector chirps, replace the battery with a brand new battery. If your smoke detector still chirps after installing a BRAND NEW battery, remove the battery and check the polarity. Note that smoke detectors will still chirp after the “silence” or “hush” button has been pushed. This chirping should end within 10 minutes of silencing the alarm.

All alarms should be taken seriously and treated as an emergency. If the source of the alarm is determined to not be a fire, use the “hush” or “silence” buttons to end the alarm. The alarm may continue to chirp for a few minutes after pressing “silence.” If the condition has not cleared by the time the hush period ends, the alarm will sound again. Also, note that the hush button will not work if the sensor is significantly clogged or senses heavy smoke.

Cooking smoke, steam, dusty air, and even bugs can cause false alarms. Consider moving your smoke detector if you are getting regular false alarms from cooking smoke or shower steam. If you are experiencing false alarms for an unknown reason, try cleaning your smoke detector by dusting the exterior and gently vacuuming over the sensor vent holes. ALL YOUR ALARMS will sound during a false alarm, but typically ONLY ONE alarm triggered the alert. You can identify the culprit by locating the alarm with the flashing red indicator light. Clean and clear out this alarm first.

Smoke detectors located in kitchens, near air conditioning return vents, or in unused or dusty parts of the house are the most likely to give you a false alarm.

Absolutely! In fact, most of the recessed lights we install are in finished ceilings with no overhead access. We use remodel type lights, special tools, drills, and a camera to fish the wires. Plus, we use a special saw that collects that dust as we cut (it’s pretty cool).

Not if you use us! We are recessed lighting specialist (really, we are). Most of the time, we install recessed lights without any damage to the existing ceiling. In some cases, we are forced to cut a small hole to assist with the wiring, but never without your permission. We never remove large sections of drywall or cut multiple holes or channels. If someone told you they would need to ruin your ceiling, they did not know how to install recessed lights.

Recessed lights come in several types and sizes. We install 6″, 5″, 4″, 3″ and even 2″ recessed lights.

  • 6″ recessed lights are the most common type and are great for kitchens, hallways, and sitting rooms.
  • 4″ lights are great for theaters, bar areas, small kitchens, and fireplaces.
  • 3″ lights are great for dramatic lighting around artwork, arches, curtains, and cabinets.
  • 2″ recessed lights are great for showcases, cabinets, nooks, and arches.

Call us and we will schedule a lighting consultation with an expert who can answer all your questions and help you make a great decision.

Yes, you can. It may be a bit more difficult and can be messy (according to our standards) in some cases, but we do it on a regular basis. They even make recessed lights specifically for sloped ceilings.

Many recessed lights have interchangeable trim pieces (the part of the light you can see). That means we can change the whole look of the recessed light, just by changing the trim piece. This is a great option in rooms with cheap trims that have started to yellow.

Get the light checked out. There is probably a loose wire or connection that is reducing the bulb life.

The light needs to be checked out. Regular recessed lights contain thermal sensors that can go bad and shut off the light. Low Voltage type recessed lights contain transformers that can go bad over time. Also, we find that many low voltage lights have damaged or corroded sockets.

Probably. Federal Pacific Panels are associated with numerous house and panel fires and were subject to a class action law suit before the company went out of business. Have a licensed electrician check the panel for damage. Click Here for more info.

Call us. Buzzing, Humming, or Sizzling sounds are often the first indicator of an electrical problem. The sound you hear could be your panel melting. Get an electrical safety checked before your panel needs to be replaced.

We can install a sub panel to create additional space or upgrade your panel to provide more room. Adding circuits to an overloaded panel is not recommended and can lead to major panel damage.

Your home is probably only getting one leg of power from your power provider. Call your power company and ask them to investigate your meter.

Yes, it can. Old panels and meters with loose or damaged connections from age and use can create energy loss and heat. This means higher energy bills.

No. Breakers should not get hot during use. If a breaker is overloaded or bad, it will begin to lose electricity in the form of heat. Have any breaker that is hot to the touch checked out by an electrician.

Most home improvement stores carry panel screws. Be sure to get the screws for your panel only. The wrong type or length of screw can damage wires inside you panel.

A GFCI is a “Ground Fault Circuit Interrupting” device. (Pretty fancy, huh?) This means it interrupts power to the outlet when it senses any electricity leaking out of the circuit. Basically, this means the device shuts off power when its senses that electricity is going somewhere other than back to the power grid. Which is good, because sometimes that electricity is escaping into a person!

Simply put, GFCI’s save lives. In the event of an electric shock, current runs through the victim away from the source. GFCI’s sense this and shut off automatically. Since their inception in the National Electrical Code, GFCI’s have saved hundreds of lives. The US Consumer Safety Committee found that two thirds of the 300 household electrical deaths that occur every year could have been prevented by the proper installation of a GFCI device. Click Here to read The US Consumer Safety Committee’s Fact Sheet on GFCI Devices in The Home.

Kitchens, bathrooms, and outdoor locations, especially near water, are a must. Garages, unfinished basements, and crawlspaces are also required in most jurisdictions. These are places in the home where ground faults commonly occur and people are the most susceptible to electrical shock. Did you know that only half the homes we inspect have GFI’s in the kitchen (shocking…isn’t it!).

On the GFCI there is a button labeled “test.” Hit the test button and you should hear a snap as the outlet shuts off. Hit the “reset” button to restore power. If your GFCI does not shut off when tested, get it replaced. The only way to really know if a GFCI is working is to test it with a GFCI tester (you can get one at your local hardware store). GFCI testing is standard in our whole house electrical safety checks.

Maybe, but it’s probably just doing its job (protecting you from ground faults). Get the circuit checked out to make sure there is not a ground fault or leak somewhere in the wiring. Often appliances that have ground faults (electrical leaks) will cause a GFCI to trip. Its a good idea to have any appliance that is tripping a GFCI checked out.

Halogen bulbs are light bulbs with tungsten filaments (the part that glows) and filled with halogen gas. They burn much hotter and brighter than normal bulbs which makes the light appear clearer or whiter. Halogen bulbs generally last longer and are more efficient than regular bulbs. Because Halogen lights burn much hotter, they are compromised of grease or dirt gets on their surface. Handle with care.

Fluorescent light bulbs have gas inside of them that “excites” when electricity runs through the bulb. This causes the bulb to glow. These lights are more efficient than Halogen or regular light bulbs and come in different colors. Because the light bulbs are gas based, fluorescent lights generally require a ballast to control the flow of electricity through the light bulb. This is why many dimmers to do not work with fluorescent lights.

Xenon Lights are similar to halogen but contain Xenon gas. They are generally brighter and clearer than halogen lights. Xenon lights are relatively new but can be found in under cabinet and art lights.

LED stands for Light Emitting Diode. LED lights emit energy in the form of light when current passes through them. These lights are very energy efficient and represent the next wave in lighting. LED lighting is standard in electronics but is now making headway in household lighting.

Most of the time, it is because the bulb is too big for the application. In these cases, the light gets too hot and the element burns. Check the fixture for the appropriate size light bulb. If the light bulb size is correct, there may be a loose or faulty electrical connection.

Check the light bulbs; they may be going bad. If it is a fluorescent light, your ballast may be causing the humming. Be sure to use the correct type of bulb for your fluorescent fixture to avoid this problem.

Always turn off the power because this is a dangerous situation. A good trick is to use a new light bulb to back-out the old socket. Just press the new bulb in and turn counterclockwise. Don’t press to hard. If the bulb does not come out, call a licensed electrician.

Of course! We hold the highest electrical license offered by the State of Georgia and our electricians are licensed. Our license number is EN214217. We also carry General Liability Insurance, Worker’s Compensation, and a Commercial Umbrella Policy just to be safe. We also have code compliance bonds in counties that offer it.

We were founded in 1998 in Roswell, Georgia. Most companies fail within the first five years of start-up, so we are proud to still be here. We still service some of the same clients from 1998!

We are located in Roswell, Georgia. Our address is 9800 Old Dogwood Rd, Roswell, GA 30075.

TE Certified Electricians, Heating, & Cooling Team Photo of techs

We warranty our workmanship and parts for life. If anything ever goes wrong with our installation we will fix it for free! If a part that we supplied ever goes bad, we will provide a new one for free! Installation is not included in our parts warranty after the first year.

Our Technicians all spent at least five years working inside homes with homeowners. Each one has passed a national background check and a written examination. We hold weekly safety and training meetings so they stay sharp and keep up with the latest in electrical material, tools, and practices.

The name of our company is Thrasher Electric, LLC – We go by “TE Certified Electricians.”