Alpharetta GA – Electricians, Plumbers & HVAC Company

Troubleshoot on Generac 26Kw standby generator

SERVICE CALL: upon arrival homeowner stated the hvac system is not Working properly and thermostat display temperature of 92 degrees inside the house. After complete troubleshooting I found the outdoor unit Was overheating due to failed dual run capacitor. By homeowner request Performed minimum repairs install new Dual run capacitor 40/5 uf plus Install compressor hard start kit test cooling mode is working ok at this moment. Thanks for choosing t e certified.

Customer called us out for water on the floor of the office bathroom. On arrival I inspected the toilet but saw no water. Customer had shut the stop off. I turned it on and flushed the toilet multiple times with no signs of water I then checked the clean out outside. When I came back I found water coming from the supply line where it meets the fill valve. I recommended replacing the supply line. Customer agreed. Customer does have Cpvc. I removed the supply line and installed a new braided supply line. Tested the line for 10 minutes with no signs of a leak.

Diagnosed issue with pressure on hot side of fixtures in the home. Removed valve on the water heater that was suspected of failure as well as checked connections to the tank itself for signs of corrosion or buildup. Replaced hot side nipple and repiped hot and cold side of the water heater as well as replaced the thermal expansion tank that had failed. Strapped new expansion tank to a proper bracket and purged water lines in the home to check for debris. Pressure at kitchen sink is restored however the master shower system is still affected. We removed the shower system and attempted to purge the lines. With the system removed there is full pressure, however when it was reinstalled pressure issues persisted indicating the shower system itself is failed and needs to be replaced. Advised the client of the issue and recommended replacement with a standard shower valve.

Performed 1 system cooling diagnostics on a 2014 goodman unit that cools the upstairs of the home. Issues: outdoor capacitor has completely failed. The indoor blower wheel is impacted with dirt. The blower motor capacitor is near failure. The bearings on the condenser fan motor are failing. System needs better flood protection and a condensation line cleaning. Homeowner only wants me to replace the capacitor. I also rinsed off the outdoor unit for no charge for the homeowner. The system was operating when I left. Inspection fee waived to make customer happy; no inspection form completed.

On today’s visit I met with the homeowner. The homeowner was experiencing some issue with a few running toilets. I wrote up options to perform work and received approval. I replaced two flush towers, a Koehler seal and put a new fill valve on the down stairs bathroom toilet. I tested for leaks and made sure the toilets were not still running. I did a super clean up as well. The customer is happy and satisfied at this time. Provide and install special order tower. Shut off water supply, remove water from tank and bowl, disconnect supply line from tank, remove old bolts, pull the tank from the bowl, remove the gasket, disassemble the flush tower, install new flush tower, install washers on tank to bowl connections, install new brass bolts and gaskets, connect tank to bowl and secure, inspect service stop, install a new supply line and connect, fill tank, make final adjustments for proper flush, and clean up work area. Minor repair to existing toilet. Includes small repair or minor part

This option is to troubleshoot the condenser that keeps tripping. After testing voltage and ampacity, I found that everything was correct, and as it should be. There were no improper readings, there was nothing loose, and there was nothing burned corroded or otherwise damaged. I did notice after the AC ran for a little while the breaker got unusually hot. I cannot say for certain, as I don’t know what the internal components look like on the inside of the breaker, but in my professional opinion, it seems as though the breaker itself needs to be replaced. I suspect there is an internal component, potentially damaged, causing the breaker to overheat and trip occasionally. I offered to make the drive back to the shop to get a 35 amp GE breaker to replace it with, but the homeowner did not want to do that. He said he looked online before I came and saw he could buy one for $20 and says he will do it himself.

The bare minimum basic repairs to get the system running today. Unit from 2012. Struggling to cool. Complaints that the unit will occasionally shut down during the day. Unable to determine the exact cause, is this did not happen during today’s visit. Upon initial inspection, noticed the high pressure on the refrigerant was dangerously high. Recommended starting off with cooling the system down and cleaning the coils. Once this was agreed upon and performed, noticed that the system was also low on refrigerant. And even though the high-pressure dropped, it is still far too high. Stated that refrigerant could be added, though it was not recommended as the unit would be running too hot again. Advised homeowner that the system is on its last leg and investing too much more into the system may not be the best idea. Homeowner decided to leave everything as is for now. Unit is cooling better, the will continue to struggle. Thank you for choosing TE certified!

Today I installed a Tesla wall charger in the garage, fed from the min panel of the home in the basement. I also installed a 60amp 2-pull breaker in the min panel and labeled its location.

Excavate and replace drain by driveway side from house to tank

Customer had a few slow draining fixtures in the home. I ended up taking apart, two sinks that was caked up with hair and oils after removing all the hair and breaking up the oils and gunk buildup. I got both drains flowing properly and also the bathtub was slow draining due to a lot of hair in the drain after running my snake down the drain I was able to clear the hair and get the drain floor properly. I also ran my drain cable down the master bathroom sink because it was buildup further down the line that I had to clear out after testing. Everything is draining perfectly with no leaks and backups.

The scope of today’s work included: installing sewer ejector pump vent pipe to existing sewer vent and removing air admittance valve, installing a new thermal expansion tank to the main water heater and securing it, filling in a gap under basement bathroom sink where tile was not installed, reworking basement water heater connections removing pex and installing a minimum of 18” of copper pipe before pex transition.

Performed 1 system cooling diagnostics on the mainfloor AC system. The unit is a rheem system that was manufactured in 1999. The unit had a failed outdoor capacitor and a refrigerant leak. The unit is very low on refrigerant (because of the leak) which is causing the unit to run hot and burn out the capacitor. The capacitor appears to have been replaced in the last few years but is now burnt out. The AC system run on r22 (obsolete refrigerant); no repair options available. The furnace is also very old and in poor condition. The homeowner has setup a time with an install supervisor. Tech left the power off to the outdoor unit (homeowner approved for me to do so).

Replaced foyer light

Busting slab to find leak. Repairing leak and covering hole back pouring concrete

Came out today for a water pressure concern. Upon thorough evaluation, I found the homes water pressure was reading 90 PSI at the time of arrival, which is above the recommended operating range. I explained to the customer the potential issues that elevated water pressure can cause, including premature wear on plumbing fixtures, appliances, and the water heater. I also noted that the existing pressure reducing valve (PRV) was the original builder-grade unit, which commonly fails over time and is no longer regulating pressure properly. After reviewing my findings and recommendations, the customer elected to replace the pressure reducing valve and expansion tank. Upon completion of the installation, I tested the system, checked all connections for leaks, purged the lines, and verified that the plumbing system was operating properly with the pressure restored to the appropriate range.

Bathroom outlets are all not working, this option is to troubleshoot them This option is to change the outlets in the 2 upstairs bedroom bathrooms, and the main level bathroom GFCI. And the work would have a lifetime workmanship warranty.

Customer called about a leaking toilet. TE arrived and inspected toilet. Conducted repairs on toilet and tested.

Install a dedicated 240volt line for the sauna.

At arrival on 07/02/26 Issue: no cool System: upstairs Finding: previous frozen coil, water in the drain pan, no wet safety switch, no Ss1 safety switch, extremely dirty coil, bad indoor capacitor, weak outdoor capacitor, dusty ductworks, weak contactor. System is intermittently shutting off after 5mn run time. This could be a zone board issue or contactor issue. Water is still dripping outside the evaporator drain pan, potentially broken primary drain pan. Recommendations: address the above issues

6/10: Customer stated that she is checking her schedule and will reach out when she knows what 3 days work for her. RW Increase future options with higher capacity panel Expand gym/basement capacity with 5 dedicated circuits

Replaced damaged meter, collected for permit for 400 amps service upgrade.

Performed 1 system. Diagnostic for main level unit, found indoor unit with rusted burners, rust in drains indicating rushed evap coil, no te flood protections, cracked inducer motor, rusted flue pipes, dirty filter, failed compressor, pitted contactor, dirty condenser unit. Furnace is 37 years old and ac/ coil is 31 years old. Due to cost of repairs type of refrigerant. Recommend replacement since there are no logical repairs available. Based on our findings today, it might be time to think about getting a brand new system.

This option involves removing the (3) existing outlets in the patio bar and replacing all (3) outlets with weather-resistant outlets. This circuit will be protected with a company-provided 20a GFCI breaker.

Performed 1 system diagnostic for upstairs system. Unit is a 04’ Trane furnace and a 18’ ac and coil that’s carrier. Found 2 ton unit short of ductwork. Will need to increase supply’s and add a return as well to improve circulation. Have no te flood protection, no sediment trap, blower is dirty, condenser coil is dirty, capacitor is weak and compressor is drawing high amps at this time. Would recommend replacement as well as duct work modifications and getting unit under warranty. But can get unit operational but not efficient with a capacitor. Compressor drawing higher aml and will fail in the long run. The bare minimum basic repairs to get the system running today. Based on our findings today, it might be time to think about getting a brand new system.