Electricians, Plumbers & HVAC Repair Service in Dunwoody GA

Upon arrival, we met with the owner. The disposal side of the kitchen sink is clogged and not draining at all. From the disposal 90°, it immediately goes into ABS, through the cabinet and has an inline p-trap before the 3” wye. The other side of the sink is draining. At this time, the owner approved to remove the ABS, and re-pipe to eliminate the clog and pipe it in a better format. We removed the ABS, re-piped in PVC, ran water to test and ensure no leaks or errors. The pipe in the basement is secured to a joist and properly graded. Repair damaged section of small interior drain line, replace section of pipe up to 5 ft, install structural supports, level and insure proper fall for adequate drainage, test to insure leak has been sealed.

Uninstall existing faucet, open up drywall down below to access water lines, drill through tile to install floor mounted faucet, and connect water lines

For this job, I worked on performing electrical panel maintenance, replace 50 year-old main breaker, provide an install whole house surge protection, re-device circuit that causes dangerous conditions, only fix four way switches and provide an install two panel lights.

Install a new 20A Circuit, dual function breaker, and outlet for a new dishwasher.

Installed new 50 gallon Rheem water heater. After install I tested everything for proper function. Thank you for choosing TE Certified

Preformed homecare inspection and made recommendations. Customer agreed to complete work same day. Replaced water heater shut off valve, gas shut off valve, thermal expansion tank, and added a new hot water recirculating pump with cross over tee. Flushed all air from the system and powered on new pump. Set water heater temp back to 120. Thank you for choosing TE Certified.

Found that the system was not cooling the upstairs system. The system is zoned with a non functional bypass. The bypass is also to small. The zone for the basement is too small for the system. The indoor unit is from 2007 and probably has an R22 piston in it and the outdoor unit is an r410a 2019 unit. The outdoor unit is too close to the walls around the home and is it able to reject its heat. The supply plenum is falling apart. The air filter was clogged. The suction line is partial crushed; restricting refrigerant flow. The system is only a single stage and should be a variable speed. The system needs to be replaced. The homeowner declined to get an estimate for system replacement.

Customer had two drains upstairs, his and her sink that was slow draining so I took apart the drains and hand cleaned and removed all buildup and hair and after testing the drains, the drain is now working perfectly with no leaks, and no backups present. Also provided a bottle of enzymes to help eat up oils and grease that could collect in the drain pipes. Also have a leak somewhere in the ceiling , we have a service tech coming out tomorrow to do a leak search and provide option on fixing the leak

For this job, I worked on running a dedicated 85’ 30 amp 120 V circuit to a GFI for a yogurt machine.

For this job, I completed a home care inspection and installed an outlet for a pump. I will be returning next week to add GFCI protection to the home and to separate the grounds and neutrals in both panels

Mounted a tv and ran the hdmi through the wall

Install one quad outlet, GFCI outlet, new outlet for mini fridge, dimmer, and two new lights

Estimate: Remove fixture as is today, leave water and drain lines capped for countertop contractors to install new unit around plumbing stub outs. Summary of work performed: Turned water off to the home and drained down plumbing distribution system. Disconnected supply lines from old stop valves and opened valves whilst holding a vacuum hose in place to collect excess water lingering in pipes. Once dry, cut stops free from copper. Reamed and sanded pipe before installing caps on copper lines. Pressed securely in place. Cut drain line flush to remove chrome tubular drain assembly. Placed Fernco cap securely on drain line to prevent sewer gas from escaping back into the home. Turned water back on to the home and tested for leaks. No leaks at this time. Disconnected security clamps holding drop in sink in place. Removed and disposed of old sink/faucet assembly. Cleaned work area, disposed of all other waste materials yielded from work before departure. Note: While on site, d

5 year old AC system, 17 year old evaporator coils on 410a and a newer Rheem furnace horizontally mounted. System is froze over. Blower motor running filter changed out 16x25x1 Due to 410a 17 year old case coils repair is not viable due to 2025 new refrigerant change over laws that took effect. Advisor to come out and quote new ac system.

Tested system struggling to cool for the whole home. Found that the system is low on refrigerant that is signifying a leak in the system. I tested with my electronic leak detector and I could not pinpoint a leak at this time. Inform the customer that we would need to, complete a high-pressure nitrogen leak surge in order to pinpoint to leak and then we would be able to provide options on repairing the leak. Because the evaporator coil is rusted and the condition that it is in, it is very likely that the evaporator coil is the piece that is leaking . If we complete a leak search and the evaporator coil is leaking then it would be a pricey repair to put into this 18-year-old system. It is also questionable whether the part for a slab coil would be available at this time. If not, we would have to redesign to fit an A-cabinet evaporator coil onto the unit. Due to the price of this likely repair, it may be worth it to look into replacement. Customer will need to discuss with the owner of th

Remove and replace faulty doorbell

Upstairs system: filter dirty and changed. Treated drain line. 60k btu furnace with a 3 ton case coil and a 2 ton condenser. Overall system is undersized for space. Possible duct leakage, but could not find on inspection today. Thermostat set to cycle fan on for 55 minutes out of every hour. This will cause it to draw all hot air to upstairs as there is a huge loft area from downstairs where air will rise from. Compressor is very loud and is heading towards failure. Overall condition of ductwork is poor.

Replaced and installed customer supplied shower valve. Replaced toilet flange in master bathroom, as well as water stop for toilet. All work was tested and checked for leaks

Remove washing machine hoses, check washing machine inlet screens. Run water from washing machine hoses to check for debris. We removed washing machine hoses from the back of the machine and checked screens. Screens were completely clear of debris and buildup. We ran the washing machine hoses into a white bucket and filled bucket with cold, and then with hot water. Water was clear and free of debris. We reattached hoses to washing machine and ran a warm cycle to fill washer tub, and then ran a rinse and spin. We paused the machine and checked for debris in the washing machine and saw several pieces of debris floating around. This debris appears to be coming from the washing machine, and not coming in through the waterlines. I recommend contacting an appliance repair person to find further information on what could cause this.

Called out for backed up toilet main floor bathroom Ran water in two sinks and bathtub as well as flushed toilet Toilet is backed up and left sink is draining slow Ran sewer cable through toilet to clear blockage of waste/paper Ran cable through sink drain to clear blockage of hair Tested Toilet with 5 flushes and tested sink thoroughly Both lines are clear and flowing Thank You for choosing TE Certified!

Service visit on Generac 26kw standby generator

At arrival on 04/13/26 found main floor system cooling with some concerns. Water in the basement due to customer provided dehumidifier pouring water in the basement. The drain plug is still locked and no drain line was run. Dirty air filter Bad outdoor capacitor Dirty air ducts No ss1 and wet safety switches installed Rusty drain pan Potentially clogged up drain line. Dirty Condenser coil. Flu pipe is a single wall one with tape High static pressure Microbial growth in plenums. High voltage outlet close to floor. Based on our findings today, it might be time to think about getting a brand new system.

I replaced 10 compression water stop valves in the home, I tested my work thoroughly to ensure there were no leaks

Customer had a portion of cast iron fail on the crawlspace, leaking near the air handler. This house is from 1969 and most of the cast iron iron has been replaced already. This failure was near the main drain stack. I saw cast iron in the laundry room and gave an option to repipe the washer box and the laundry sink. This area isn’t currently experiencing issues. Replace a portion of cast iron, including the leaking branch, the wye, and a portion of the stack the two main lines connect to before the pipe goes underground. Confirmed the pipe had proper grade and supported it using J hooks. Tested for leaks and verified the drains were functioning properly. While I was had the line open I noticed some advanced grease buildup in the kitchen drain line. I notified the customer and suggested a drain technician hydro Jet the line. I cleared as much as I could with a 5 foot probe. We talked about the possibility of property medics coming out to evaluate the sewage in the crawlspace. I let

Replace existing expansion tank that is leaking and causing water damage to walls and floors. On schedule to replace water heater 05/28/36.